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The Mamanuca Highlands
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The top of Malolo Island is not quite a peak, not quite a hill but it is the highpoint of the Mamanuca Islands’ chain and it provides a truly magnificent vista. We dare you to turn in any direction and try not to look with absolute awe. You are now witnessing 360° degrees of spectacular tropical islands. On a clear day, and most days in the Mamanucas are ‘very’ clear, you will literally see dozens of islands for your viewing pleasure.
To the northwest, you will see the mountainous Yasawa Island chain. Surrounding you in almost every direction, you sit smack dab in the middle of the lower lying Mamanuca chain, rich with more circular islands surrounded by white sandy beaches. Directly east, you will see Fiji’s main island of Viti Levu. If you have carried in your mind, an image of what a tropical island in paradise should look like; there is surely one in your sightline that will match that magical inner vision.
The Climb
The trek up to the top of Malolo is not for everyone, but it rewards those who take the initiative. Moving forward from the western side of the island, you will find the journey breaks down into three distinct stages. Arriving at the quaint island village of Solevu, you and your guide will share a quick “hello” or two with friendly locals and then it’s time for the first section of the hike.
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Getting high in Fiji
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The initial section is not challenging terrain, but it is certainly steep. After reaching the first significant plateau, the second stage involves a long and gradual ascent of successive hills on very accessible trail. The final stage is again quite steep as you wrap around the crest. It is the most challenging portion.
Once you have made it to the top, you will discover a number of concrete foundations that date all the way back to WWII. This was the location of an American military radio station and living quarters. It all seems a bit like overkill, as it’s so clear up there, smoke signals would have worked just as effectively. At the very top sits the one structure that is still intact. It serves to provide the only real shade on a hot day so you will appreciate that with guaranteed enthusiasm.
At the Top
At the top, imagine just for a moment, the futile job of defending such a small, wide open structure, on the top of an island in military wartime. That attack never did occur. Perhaps you might pause and think for a minute about the villagers on both sides of the island who for hundreds of years would climb to the top for safety when the island was under attack from warring, neighboring tribes.
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The Yasawa Islands out in the distance
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A WWII US communications centre, or what’s left of it
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Historical Icons
Captain Bligh and Captain Wilkes
There is even more history that this vista oversees. You can view the waters and passage that Captain Bligh cut through as he and his crew rowed for their lives after being cast off by the mutinous crew of ‘The Bounty’ while being chased by deadly Fijian cannibals.
You can also view where Captain Charles Wilkes of the US Navy, who suffered the loss of two crewmen killed by locals in 1864 while he stopped to restock and barter for supplies. Wilkes retaliated with a quick and deadly show of force by killing 70 Fijians primarily with cannon fire from his ship.
Present Day
Today, there are neither treacherous natives nor military expeditions to be on the lookout for as only the occasional sail boat, catamaran, fishing charter or water sport enthusiast populates the clear, calm and vividly blue waters below.
As you gaze across this magnificent panorama from your vantage point and look to the horizon, you will acknowledge that the beauty of Fiji’s Mamanucas is the one true constant in these islands history.
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