Fiji Islands Travel Guide | Discover the Islands | Lomaiviti Group | Regional Highlights

Walking Through History

Early in the morning I prepared to embark on my Historical Walk of Levuka. Being a bit of a history buff I was quite exhilarated at the thought of seeing relics of Levuka’s past where previously I had only read about them.

After synchronizing watches with my trusty guide I set off full of enthusiasm and expectation (one could almost say “Great Expectations” being of a similar era).

On being told that the walk would take around one and a half hours I thought, “Good stuff – I can do that.”

We commenced our journey at the Levuka Community Centre, library and museum which was the original building of the Morris Hedstrom merchant empire dating back to 1868. The building was granted to the Fiji National Trust in 1980 and was rescued from further dilapidation by the Levuka Cultural and Historical Society. Enter the portals of this historical building and your journey in a time machine begins.

Displayed were vintage printing presses that previously churned out dailies regaling the shenanigans of the unruly bunch of sailors, ex-convicts and thieves that inhabited Levuka at that time.

1872 –“Roguery and scheming at every hand … and no government to enforce laws or clean up the brawling settlement.”

A stroll through Levuka is a journey back to the romance and style of the colonial era

There are fabulous shells, an antique sitar (Indian musical instrument), period photos, war clubs, decorated cannibal forks and whales-tooth ornaments worn by chiefs. A plethora of relics from a by-gone age.

Then to an antique drinking fountain, the site of the original pigeon loft where the birds provided the first postal service between Levuka and Suva. You will oft hear the mumblings of locals, “It was faster and more reliable than the mail today.” Oh, the good old days!

Meandering past the Post Office (thankfully this is a walk executed in ‘Fiji Time’ fashion) and towards the wharf we came across Levuka’s only hairdressing establishment and were greeted with an enthusiastic Bula.

We passed ancient machinery, the original generator providing Levuka’s power and further on what was left of a copra freight truck located in front of a rusting turnstile. I started taking heaps of candid snaps under the bemused look of my guide. Little did he know that being an amateur photographer (I’m a copywriter by trade) I take 20 shots of everything – just to be on the safe side.

Then to Nasova where the three Cession stones are located - solid reminders of great moments in Fiji’s history. The first stone was laid in 1935 commemorating the Deed of Cession on 10 October 1874. As a gesture of peace and gratitude, King Cakobau presented his war club to her Majesty Queen Victoria. The remaining two stones commemorate Fiji’s independent state within the Commonwealth in 1970 and the centenary of the Deed of Cession in 1974.

Then to the Provincial Bure which Prince Charles used as his headquarters when he represented his mother, the then Queen of Fiji, in 1970. Next door, the newly built provincial headquarters still in the mode of a bure but using modern-day building materials. Pretty fancy but lacking the character of the original – just my opinion of course.

The Church of the Sacred Heart is imposing with its tower housing the town clock which has resounded twice each hour since 1889. Beneath the Levuka hills is the Marist Convent School, a stunning stone building constructed in 1880 and further on the Town Hall erected in 1898 to celebrate Queen Elizabeth’s silver jubilee.

The Masonic Lodge was erected in 1875 and was the first in the South Pacific. Burnt down in 2000 amidst whispers and rumours of devilish goings-on and alleged tunnels leading back to the origins of the Masons, bonnie Scotland.

The Royal Hotel, circa 1860, is history itself. H. Stonehewer Cooper wrote, “Of good stores, hotels and boarding (not bawdy) houses, there is no lack; notably the hostelries called ‘Stuarts’, ‘Levuka’, the ‘Royal’, ‘Polynesian’, and the ‘Steampacket’’…..” It is said that a ‘gentleman’ by the name of Bully Hayes stayed here and slave auctions took place in front of the hotel.

With my skin now a delicate shade of pink due to packing Deep Heat instead of sunscreen and the legs starting to weary slightly we resolutely pushed on. Not us a bunch of shirkers be.

The Navoka Methodist Church was founded by the Wesleyans (Methodists) in 1862 and stills hold English speaking services to welcome and encourage Europeans and Fijians to praise together. Then on to the street of 199 steps leading to Mission Hill and Binner House built by the Reverend John Binner which has since been destroyed.

The magnificent Anglican Church of the Holy Redeemer is actually the third church built on the site, its predecessors all being destroyed by hurricanes. Erected in 1904 its stained glass windows commemorate early Levuka residents and are absolutely stunning.

A short walk brings you to the Levuka Vakaviti Village Methodist Church dating back to 1866 where the Tui Levuka, Ratu Cakobau worshipped. The cemetery beside the church holds 135 graves one of which is said to have belonged to J B Williams, the American Consul whose financial claims were a factor in the chiefs ceding Fiji to Queen Victoria.

Above Levuka village is Gau Rock which in 1849 was used for target practice by the Captain of HMS Havannah to impress Cakobau with the power of a warship’s guns. There are cannon-ball scars on the rock’s face still today. Then just beyond Gun Rock is Vagadaci Village the old headquarters of the Royal Engineers who built the 100-year old sea wall in Levuka. The Duke of York (later King George V) and his brother the Duke of Clarence also played cricket at Vagadeci.

Then back to the Community Centre where I settled my dues and thanked my gracious and hospitable host for his time and incredible knowledge.

If you visit Levuka, and please do, visit and support the Community Centre and ask for the Walking Tour.

It’s a walk through time you’ll never forget.